فضای مجازی و طراحی مدل‌ معنایی پوشش دختران شهر تهران، تبیینی داده‌بنیاد

ﻣﻄﺎﻟﻌﻪی ﺣﺎﺿﺮ، ﺗﻼش ﺷﺪه دﻻﻟﺖﻫﺎی ﻣﻌﻨﺎﯾﯽ ﭘﻮﺷﺶ دﺧﺘﺮان ﭘﺲ از ﻣﺼﺮف رﺳﺎﻧﻪای ﺑﺮاﺳﺎس ﺗﺒﯿﯿﻨﯽ دادهﺑﻨﯿﺎد ﺑﺮرﺳﯽ و ﻣﻄﺎﻟﻌﻪ ﺷﻮد. ﻫﺪف از اﯾﻦ ﺗﺤﻘﯿﻖ ﺗﺒﯿﯿﻦ ﻣﺪل ﻣﻌﻨﺎﯾﯽ ﭘﻮﺷﺶ دﺧﺘﺮان ﺷﻬﺮ ﺗﻬﺮان اﺳﺖ. ﯾﺎﻓﺘﻪﻫﺎی اﯾﻦ ﻣﻄﺎﻟﻌﮥ ﮐﯿﻔﯽ، از ﻃﺮﯾﻖ اﻧﺠﺎم ﻣﺼﺎﺣﺒﻪﻫﺎی ﻋﻤﯿﻖ و ﻧﯿﻤﻪﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎرﯾﺎﻓﺘﻪ ﺑﺎ 21دﺧﺘﺮ ﺟﻮان ﺷﻬﺮ ﺗﻬﺮان از آن ﺟﻬﺖ ﮐﻪ اﯾﻦ ﺑﺨﺶ ﺟﻮان از ﺟﺎﻣﻌﻪ، در ﻣﻌﻨﺎﺑﺨﺸﯽ ﺑﻪ ﻣﺪل ﻫﺎی ﭘﻮﺷﺶ در اﺟﺘﻤﺎع ﻧﻘﺶ ﻣﻬﻢ و ﺑﺎاﻫﻤﯿﺘﯽ را دارا ﻫﺴﺘﻨﺪ، ﺟﻤﻊآوری ﺷﺪ. ﻣﯿﺎﻧﮕﯿﻦ ﺳﻨﯽ اﯾﻦ دﺧﺘﺮان 19ﺗﺎ 33ﺳﺎﻟﻪ ﺑﻮده ﮐﻪ ﺗﺠﺰﯾﻪ و ﺗﺤﻠﯿﻞ ﯾﺎﻓﺘﻪﻫﺎ ﻧﯿﺰ ﺑﺎ اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از روﯾﮥ دادهﺑﻨﯿﺎد و ﻣﺮاﺣﻞ ﮐﺪﮔﺬاری ﻣﺮﺗﺒﻂ ﺑﻪ آن ﺻﻮرت ﭘﺬﯾﺮﻓﺖ. ﯾﺎﻓﺘﻪﻫﺎی اﮐﺘﺸﺎﻓﯽ ﻧﺸﺎن داد، ﻋﻮاﻣﻞ ﮔﻮﻧﺎﮔﻮﻧﯽ در ﺷﮑﻞﮔﯿﺮی ﻣﻘﻮﻟﮥ ﻣﺮﮐﺰی ﯾﻌﻨﯽ»ﺑﺪن ﺑﻪ ﻣﺜﺎﺑﻪ ﺳﺮﻣﺎ ﯾﮥ ﻧﻤﺎدﯾﻦ« اﺛﺮﮔﺬار اﺳﺖ و ﻋﻮاﻣﻞ زﻣﯿﻨﻪای ﻫﻤﭽﻮن »ز ﯾﺒﺎ ﯾﯽﮔﺮا ﯾﯽ و ﮐﻤﺎلﻃﻠﺒﯽ، ﺑﺪن و ﭘﻮﺷﺎک ﺑﻪ ﻣﺜﺎﺑﻪ اﺑﮋه ز ﯾﺒﺎﯾﯽﺷﻨﺎﺧﺘﯽ، ﺟﻠﻮهﮔﺮی ﺧﻮد اﯾ ﺪﺋﺎل« ﻧ ﯿﺰ از ﺟﻤﻠﻪ ﻋﻮاﻣﻞ ﻣﻮﺛﺮ ﺑﺮ اﻧﺘﺨﺎب ﺳﺒﮏ ﭘﻮﺷﺶ زﻧﺎن ﻣﯽﺑﺎﺷﺪ؛ از ﺳﻮ ﯾﯽ دﯾﮕﺮ ﻋﻮاﻣﻞ ﻋﻠﯽ و ﻣﺪاﺧﻠﻪای ﻫﻤﭽﻮن »ﺑﺮﺟﺴﺘﮕﯽ ﻣﺪ در ﻫﻮ ﯾﺖﺑﺨﺸﯽ، ﻣﺮدمﭘﺴﻨﺪ ﮐﺮدن ﻣﺪ، ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﻧﻮﮔﺮا ﯾﯽ و زا ﯾﺶ ﻣﺪام ﻓﺮﻫﻨﮕﯽ، اﻟﮕﻮ و ﻓﺮﻫﻨﮓ ﻣﺼﺮفرﺳﺎﻧﻪای« ﺑﺮ اﯾﻦ ﻓﺮآﯾﻨﺪ ﺗﺎﺛﯿﺮﮔﺬار اﺳﺖ. ﯾ ﺎﻓﺘﻪﻫﺎی ﺗﺤﻠﯿﻠﯽ ﻧ ﯿﺰ ﺣﺎﮐﯽ از آن ﺑﻮد ﮐﻪ اﺳﺘﺮاﺗﮋی و راﻫﺒﺮدﻫﺎی زﻧﺎن در اﯾ ﻦ زﻣﯿﻨﻪ در دو ﻣﻘﻮ ﻟﮥ »ﺑﺪﻓﺮﻣﺎ ﻧﯽ و ﻧﺎﻓﺮﻣﺎ ﻧﯽﻣﺪ ﻧﯽ ﺑﺎﮔﺰ ﯾﻨﺶ اﻟﮕﻮﻫﺎی ﻧﺎﻫﻨﺠﺎر ﭘﻮﺷﺸﯽ و ﺗﻄﺎﺑﻖﮔﺮاﯾﯽ اﻋﺘﻘﺎدی ﺑﺎ ﮔﺰ ﯾﻨﺶ اﻟﮕﻮﻫﺎی ﻓﺮﻫﻨﮕﯽ و ﻋﻘﯿﺪﺗﯽ« ﻗﺮار ﻣﯽﮔﯿﺮد در ﻧﻬﺎﯾﺖ ﻣﺠﻤﻮع اﯾﻦ راﻫﺒﺮدﻫﺎ ﻧﺘﺎ ﯾﺠﯽ از ﺟﻤﻠﻪ »ﺗﻘﻠﯿﻞ ﻣﻌﻨﺎی ﺣﺠﺎب، اﻓﺰا ﯾﺶ ﭼﺎﻟﺶﻫﺎی اﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﯽ و ﮐﻤﺮﻧﮓﺷﺪن اﻟﺰاﻣﺎت اﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﯽ ﭘﻮﺷﺶ« را ﺑﻪ ﻫﻤﺮاه دارد.

virtual space and the design of the semantic model of clothing for girls in tehran, a data-based explanation

in the present study, an attempt has been made to investigate and study the semantic implications of girls’ clothing after media consumption based on the explanatory data base. the purpose of this research is to explain the semantic model of clothing for girls in tehran. the findings of this qualitative study were collected through in-depth and semi-structured interviews with 21 young girls in tehran because this young part of the society plays an important role in giving meaning to the models of clothing in the society. the average age of these girls was 19 to 33 years old, and the findings were analyzed using the database procedure and related coding procedures. exploratory findings showed that various factors are effective in the formation of the central category i.e., body as symbolic capital and background factors such as aestheticism and perfectionism, body and clothes as aesthetic objects, ideal self-expression are also among the factors influencing the choice of style. it is women’s clothing; on the other hand, causal and interventional factors such as fashion prominence in identity giving, popularization of fashion, production of modernity and continuous birth of culture, model and consumer culture influence this process. analytical findings also indicated that women’s strategy and strategies in this field are placed in two categories: disobedience and civil disobedience by choosing abnormal clothing patterns and religious conformity by choosing cultural and ideological patterns. finally, the sum of these strategies brings results such as reducing the meaning of hijab, increasing social challenges and weakening the social requirements of covering.