بررسی آسیب الیاف پته شاه نعمت الله ولی به روش آنالیز دستگاه eds/sem و ftir

پته ی شاه نعمت‌الله ولی، در سال 1294ه.ق، برای پوشش مقبره و توسط 16 بانوی کرمانی در طی سه سال دوخته‌شده است. ازآنجایی‌که این اثر قدیمی ترین سوزن‌دوزی باقی‌مانده‌‌ در استان کرمان است، آسیب‌شناسی الیاف این اثر بسیار حائز اهمیت است. در این تحقیق برای بررسی آسیب های الیاف در بزرگنمایی بالا، از روش دستگاهی sem استفاده‌شده است. نتایج حاصل از تحقیق نشان می‌دهد که در ناحیه کوتیکول و کورتکس الیاف پشم موجود در پارچه زمینه و نخ های سوزن‌دوزی، آسیب دیدگی وجود دارد. همچنین در الیاف ابریشم (که در لبه پته کارشده است) و در الیاف آستر که از جنس کتان است، شکستگی اتفاق افتاده است. این آسیب احتمالاً بر اثر فشارهای فیزیکی و مکانیکی موجود بر روی الیاف ایجادشده است. همچنین لایه ضخیمی از آلاینده ها بر روی سطح الیاف ابریشمی، نخ سوزن‌دوزی و نخ شال (پارچه زمینه) دیده می‌شود. برای شناسایی آلاینده های موجود بر روی الیاف از آنالیز eds استفاده شد، که درنتیجه، عناصر سیلیس، سرب، آلومینیوم و منیزیم شناسایی گردید. غبار موجود بر روی الیاف، به‌مرورزمان باعث آسیب بر روی الیاف نمونه موردمطالعه می‌گردد. برای مطالعات آسیب های ساختاری الیاف از روش دستگاهی ftir استفاده گردید. که بر این اساس مشخص شد، در الیاف پشمی نخ سوزن‌دوزی و نخ شال ( پارچه زمینه پته)، در نخ های ابریشمی ریشه تزیینی در لبه ی اثر، در نخ‌های پنبه‌ای وصالی و در نخ آستری که از جنس کتان است، فرآیند تخریب الیاف وجود دارد. دلیل این نوع شدت تخریب در الیاف موردمطالعه احتمالاً تخریب نوری، کمبود رطوبت، سایش و فشارهای مکانیکی است.

The investigation of Shah Nematollah Vali`s Pateh by EDS, SEM and FTIR systems analysis

Patteh sewing is one of the most beautiful and most famous and oldest embroiders in Iran that has very history It`s one of the methods of decorating clothes that is combined closely to the tradition, climate, and attitude of people living in southeast of Iran. Patteh sewing is one of most significant and most brilliant embroiders of Kerman province, and is deeply rooted in the cultural history of Kerman, that is sew on the base of one cloth (Shal) with colorful strings (Ris). The art of Patteh sewing has received much attention from old ages, and there are rear works of this art in museums that it must be studied to be protected. Patteh is among traditional and old arts that protecting them against damaging factors is very important. Compared to other historical works, studying Patteh is performed less. There for, studying and protecting this kind of works increase because they are year. The studied Patteh in this research belong to, Shah Nematollah Vali shrine. This Patteh is prepared on 1294 by 16 Kerman women during three years to cover this shrine. Since this work is the oldest embroider remained in Kerman and till now any protective action isn rsquo;t performed on it, recognizing the damages to the fibers of this work is very important. The fibers in this work include field string (Shal), embroider string, decorative string on the margins of work, primer string and connective string that Shal and embroider string are woolen and decorative string is silk and primer string is linen and connective fiber is cotton. In this research to study the damages of fibers in above close up, the method of SEM was used. The results from this research indicate that in the cuticle and cortex area, the wool fibers in Patteh are damaged. Also these damages are probably created because of mechanical and physical pressures on the fibers. To study the percent of variations of humidity and temperature in three seasons of spring, summer and winter, on humidity meter device was used. The results showed that museum has humidity variations that can damage the objects. The most variation are happened in summer. Also a thick layer of pollutants is observed on the fibers. To identify these pollutants, EDS analysis was used, that consequently the elements of Silica, lead, Al and mg were identified. The dust the dust on the fibers will gradually result in physical and chemical damages on studied fibers. The method of FTIR was used to study these damages. Based on This study, it became velar that damage process is happened on silk, wool, cotton and linen fibers. In the leaves of string ( shal ) and the embroider string and root decorative leaves in the edges of studied Patteh that are made of protein are observed in area Amid I and Amid II and Amid III that this decrease in leaves shows the process of destroying in leaves. In the leaves of connective string and primer string that are made of cellulose, the decrease of COC and CO bonds in historical sample indicate hydrolysis of cellulose molecules, and in historical sample, increase in the CH area indicate the increase of Crystallinity in leaves of connective string. The reason of this damage on studied fibers is photo damage and shortage of humidity and mechanical pressurechr('39')s.