بافته های موزه وزیری از دوره صفویه تا قاجاریه

هدف این پژوهش بررسی و تحلیل بر روی منسوجاتی است که در کتابخانه و موزه وزیری شهر یزد، یکی از مجموعه های مهم فرهنگی تاریخی ایران نگهداری می شود. این منسوجات به دوره های صفوی، زند و قاجار مربوط می شوند. در این نوشتار به منظور بررسی روند تحولات تولید منسوجات در دوره های مذکور، پارچه ها و لباس های این موزه به لحاظ تزئینات، طرح ها و نقوش، رنگ، جنس الیاف، شیوه های دوخت، انواع رودوزی ها و کاربرد هر یک از آن ها مورد بررسی قرار گرفته اند. ساده تر شدن دستگاه های بافندگی، استفاده از مواد اولیه با کیفیت پایین و قیمت ارزانتر، کاهش عیار طلا در گلابتون های به کاررفته و به کاربردن پارچه های روسی در مرمت منسوجات در دوره قاجار، از جمله مهم ترین تغییرات در هنر صنعت پارچه بافی بعد از دوره صفوی بوده است.  این تغییرات، همگی حاکی از تاثیر عوامل سیاسی، اقتصادی و اجتماعی ایران بعد از سقوط سلسله صفوی بر رکود و انحطاط هنر صنعت پارچه بافی است. در این پژوهش منسوجات موزه وزیری برای نخستین بار شناسایی، عکاسی، طبقه بندی، تجزیه و تحلیل و به صورت علمی مستندسازی می شوند. روش تحقیق در این پژوهش توصیفی تحلیلی و گردآوری اطلاعات با استفاده از منابع کتابخانه ای، مطالعات میدانی، مصاحبه با اساتید رشته های مختلف پارچه بافی و رودوزی های سنتی ایران و مشاوره با کارشناسان موزه ها بوده است.

Textiles of Vaziri Museum from Safavid to Qajar Eras

Traditional textile weaving is one of the most ancient businesses, arts and industries in Iran. From the beginning of written history and even before, it has been found several witnesses of textile weaving activities. The initiation and continuation of this artindustry has always been affected by historical events. Today, there are many historical textiles around the world, while some of them have not been surveyed and analyzed yet. Since the method of production as well as patterns of each woven object is an important source to be used to determine social, economic, political and climatic conditions of the location of production, survey and analysis of these monuments can develop our knowledge about them and even reveal many secrets and answer many questions. The purpose of this study is analysis of textiles which are currently kept in Vaziri museum. Vaziri museum and library is an important cultural and historical center in Iran located in the city of Yazd. It contains many historical and precious monuments including:  coins, kings’ orders, containers, manuscripts, textiles and clothes from 6th century (Hijri) up to the era of Pahlavi II. The textiles of this museum, which are subject of this study, belong to Safavid, Zand, and Qajar dynasties. In this paper, the trend of changes in textile production in the mentioned periods is identified by analysis of the museum’s textiles from aspects of decoration, patterns and figures, paintings, thread materials, weaving methods, embroiders and their applications. Safavid period is considered as the golden age for artindustry of textile weaving and making fine clothes in the Islamic period of Iran history. In this period, textile weaving and cloth making have experienced prosperity and brightness, thanks to political, social, and economic conditions, internal security, and interest of Safavid kings in this artindustry as an important factor in local and international trade. After Safavid era, during early Qajar kingdom, the Safavid trend continues. But after that, due to expansion of relations with European countries, travels of businessmen and explorers to Iran, and also trips of Nasser alDin Shah to Europe, many change occurred in this artindustry. These changes finally resulted in stagnation of this artindustry. Among changes in the artindustry of textile weaving after Safavid period are: simplification of weaving machines, usage of cheap and low quality materials, reduction of gold assay in braids, and usage of Russian textiles in repairing of clothes during Qajar period. These changes imply the effect of political, economic and social factors on decline and stagnation of this artindustry after Safavid period. In this research, the textiles of Vaziri museum are introduced, photographed, categorized and analyzed for the first time. The information of the research has been collected by field studies, library sources, interview with experts of Iranian traditional textile weaving and embroidery and consulting with experts from several museums. We hope that this research would interest the researchers to the Vaziri museum and its monuments, especially textiles and we hope that it will result in better keeping and maintaining of the monuments.