تاریخ شفاهی رنگرزی پشم در فرشبافی ایل قشقایی

استان فارس یکی از مراکز تولید فرش دستباف است. نوع اقلیم و شرایط آب و هوایی این استان کشت گونه های مختلفی از گیاهان را در این سرزمین ایجاد کرده که هر کدام در ترکیب با یکدیگر و دندانه های مختلف، طیف گوناگونی از رنگ را در رنگرزی الیاف ایجاد می کند. این تحقیق با هدف کشف اتفاقات، حوادث و خاطراتی است که در فرایند رنگرزی، نوع انتخاب رنگ و سلیقه بافندگان روستایی و عشایری فارس به روش تاریخ شفاهی است. تاریخ شفاهی درواقع گفت‌وگویی قاعده‌مند و آگاهانه بین دو نفر درباره ابعادی از وقایع گذشته است که از نظر هر دوی آنها دارای اهمیت تاریخی است و برای تبدیل شدن به سند و ماندگاری آن ثبت و ضبط می‌شود. در این تحقیق به روش کیفی و با ابزار مصاحبه نیمه ساختار یافته با 42 تن از عوامل فرش دستباف روستایی و عشایری فارس مصاحبه شده است. روش نمونه گیری به صورت گلوله برفی یا افزایشی و حجم نمونه بر اساس اشباع نظری انتخاب شد. نتایج تحقیق بیانگر آن است که سیر استفاده از رنگزاهای طبیعی در تولیدات فرش این استان چگونه بوده است.

Oral History of Wool Dyeing in Qashqai Carpet

Fars province is one of the centers for producing handmade carpets. This Province according to the division in the nomadic section Includes: Three tribes of Qashqai, khamseh and lor. And distributed north to south of the province in various urban and rural areas. This makes fars province one of the most valuable place in carpet waeving in Iran and a carpet exporter in the world. Climate type and climatic conditions of this province cultivate various species of plants in the land, each of which combines with each other and different mordant , creates a variety of colors in the dyeing of fibers. This research is aimed at discovering the events and memories of the dyeing process, the type of color choices and the taste of rural and nomadic Persian weavers by oral history method.Oral history is in fact a consciously dialogue between two people about the dimensions of past events, both of which have historic significance and recorded to become a document and its durability. Oral history, as a research method from the beginning to the end, involves numerous, long, and timely stages. Which, if it meets its standards, will have tremendous results . And its purpose is merely to record the lost historical documents, such as memories, experiences, and knowledge of people directly related to the topic in question. This process, in this research, was conducted through interviewing and away from any interference with and application of the researcher's personal views, merely to record the memories of individuals. In this qualitative research, Semistructured interview tool was interviewed with 42 factors of rural and nomadic carpet Fars. Sampling method was selected as snowball or incremental and sample size based on theoretical saturation. Dyeing of fibers in Fars tribes was done annually in the spring and after wool picking and washing the fibers. These tribes usually used of plants that are in their tripes, which is why it is possible that one of the reasons for the darkness of carpets in the Arabian and eastern parts of Fars with carpets of Qashqai tribes and western regions, the same difference in the type of plants available to them. Fars province was one of the areas that used of chemical dyes after many years later. As the tribesmen did not know the proper dyeing process with these chemicals, they were treated like natural dyes, and sometimes they used natural teeth to fix it, which did not affect the color of the dye. Therefore, they do not wash their woolen linen, which are painted with chemical dyes, and usually replace and sell it after several years of use. Until in the 1970s, several producers such as Seyyed Razi Miri, Gholamreza Zolanvari and Abbas Sayyah retried to revive natural and vegetative dyes, and now the province has the most use in using these dyes in its nomadic and rural productions.