مسائل مُد و خودآرایی زنان در نشریۀ اطلاعات بانوان (1336تا1340ش/1957تا1961م)

ایجاد نوسازی فرهنگی براساس الگوهای غربی، از برنامه‌های حکومت پهلوی دوم بود. تغییر در سبک زندگی زنان، به‌ویژه در زمینۀ پوشش و خودآرایی آنها، از اقداماتی بود که در این نوسازی فرهنگی صورت گرفت. برای رسیدن به این منظور، نهادهای فرهنگی دولت پهلوی با کمک رسانه‌ها، به‌ویژه مطبوعات، الگوهای جدید خودآرایی و مُد را بین قشرهای مختلف تبلیغ می‌کردند و ترویج می‌دادند. هفته‌نامۀ اطلاعات بانوان در زمرۀ نشریات مربوط به بانوان در دهۀ سی شمسی/1950م بود که الگوهای پسندیده‌شدۀ دولت را منتشر می‌کرد.هدف این مقاله بررسی مولفه‌ها و چگونگی ترویج الگوهای مد و خودآرایی در نشریۀ مزبور از سال 1336تا1340ش/1957تا1961م، به روش توصیفی‌تحلیلی است. یافتۀ پژوهش نشان می‌دهد این نشریه به علت همسوبودن با سیاست‌های فرهنگی دولت پهلوی دوم، به‌ویژه در زمینۀ پوشش و خودآرایی زنان، در تبلیغ مُد و خودآرایی به سبک غربی نقش موثری ایفا می‌کرد؛ اما هم‌زمان با آگاهی از پیامدهای تغییر سبک زندگی و نوع پوشش زنان به سبک غربی و بروز بحران‌های اخلاقی و اجتماعی، تلاش می‌کرد علاوه‌بر بهره‌مندی زنان از خودآرایی و پوشش، آنها را با مفاهیم دیگری از مد و خودآرایی آشنا کند؛ همچنین آنها را به رعایت اصولی همچون سادگی، متانت، وقار، عفت و حیا و رعایت اعتدال براساس باورهای سنتی وادارد. باوجود تلاش وافر، این نشریه برای رواج توامان مدگرایی غربی و صیانت اخلاقی زنان به راه‌حل مناسبی دست نیافت.

A Study of Fashion and Preening Components in Etellat-e-Banovan )Women’s Information( Magazine (1957-1961)

AbstractOne of the plans of the Second Pahlavi Government was trying to create a cultural modernization based on Western patterns. One of the measures taken during this process was to change women’s lifestyles, especially their clothing and preening patterns. To this end, the ideological apparatuses of the Pahlavi government promoted new patterns of preening and fashion among various classes of the society. In the meantime, the media, especially the press, had a special role to play in promoting the models. One of the women’s magazines in the 1950s that was active for weekly providing governmentfriendly templates was EtellateBanovan (Women’s Information). The purpose of this article was to study the components of this journal and the way of promoting its fashion and preening patterns from 1957 to 1961 by using a descriptiveanalytical method. The findings showed that this magazine placed a special value on Westernstyle clothing and preening which was in line with the cultural policies of the Pahlavi government, especially in the area of women’s clothing and preening patterns. However, although being aware of the consequences of this change of lifestyle and Iranian women’s modernization in the face of ethical and social crises, the magazine sought to familiarize Iranian women with Westernstyle selfrealization and clothing, deeming it to be the correct and real concept of fashion and preening. They made women segregate from such principles as simplicity, modesty, dignity, chastity, and moderation. IntroductionHistorically, the beginning of a change in women’s types of clothing and preening and turning it into a considerable issue coincided with the changes that took place in the middle of the Qajar period in the Iranians’ various areas of political, social, economic, and cultural lives. It provided a gradual change in the women’s traditional lifestyles. As a result, Iranians became acquainted with the new culture and civilization of the West, one of the most obvious and tangible elements of which was selfdecoration, especially based on the Western women’s dresses and styles. In the Pahlavi period, the country’s modernization according to Western models was an important program that was taken into account. Based on this plan, creating cultural changes, especially in the way women wore and preened their appearances, was on the agenda of the country’s cultural policy makers and was interpreted as cultural modernization. Under the Pahlavi regime, cultural policies were designed in a way to replace Western cultural patterns with traditional and religious patterns of the Iranian society. In the meantime, the media, especially the press, played an important role in this cultural alteration. One of the publications that promoted the new patterns of clothing and makeup in line with the goals of the second Pahlavi government was the magazine of EtellateBanovan (Women’s Information). This magazine sought to engage women with new topics such as clothing and preening, and train girls according to the Western culture, while focusing on the formation of women’s association and organization that paid attention to women’s employment, social and civil rights, liberation, food, fun, entertainment, marriage, housekeeping, and mothercraft in a new way and encourage them to follow them. It promoted attention to fashionable women’s clothing and makeup in Western countries and advertised Western beauty standards in a variety of ways. This article sought to explore how this magazine promoted new Western patterns of preening and fashion among Iranian women in the second Pahlavi era and how it tried to moderate the conflict created by this new phenomenon in the traditional society. Based on the research hypothesis, there was a relationship between the actions taken by the mentioned magazine as the main variable and the preening and clothing pattern as a functional variable, which could have an increasing or positive role, a decreasing or negative role, or an ineffective role. Consequently, it was found to have played an effective role in changing this pattern. Materials and MethodsWith a descriptiveanalytical approach based on the library study, the present article sought to find an answer to the following question: What was the approach of Women’s Information Weekly towards the components of Iranian women’s preening and fashion?