EVALUATION METHODS FOR FABRIC “WAVE” PLASTICITY

Fabric “wave” plasticity is a shaping element of garment, which makes fabric shape into concavo-convex curved shape above the body surface in order to represent clothing style and design ideas. fabric “wave” plasticity plays a key role in garment silhouette. the purpose of this paper is to research evaluation methods to quantitatively evaluate the fabric “wave” plasticity. a direct evaluation method which was close to the actual use of fabrics was designed. concavo-convex curved shapes were produced by a self-made shaping model, and “wave” height “h” was used for characterizing the fabric “wave” plasticity. moreover, for exploring convenient indirect evaluation method of “wave” plasticity, two novel parameters: residual bending curvature and residual shear deformation, were defined. test results showed that “wave” heights of the fabrics used for different garment silhouettes differ substantially. multivariate statistical analysis indicated that shear hysteresis of warp at a 0.5° shear angle could be used for evaluating the fabric “wave” plasticity of warp and 45° direction, and “wave” height of weft could be assessed by residual bending curvature of weft. evaluation methods for fabric “wave” plasticity could help apparel designers to grasp the material properties more exactly and work out the garments with ideal silhouettes.